Tuesday 8 July 2014

Slide over to somewhere lovELY

Ely Cathedral - simply stunning
A wedding of a close friend in the historic city of Ely (The Old Hall) not only provided me with some wonderful memories of a beautiful and special day, but it also offered me a chance to find out more about the historic cathedral city.

So I decided to drive up a day before the celebration, and spend an afternoon exploring the area settled in the fen countryside.

Ely was once an island surrounded by marshland that contained many eels. The sheer volume of the slippery creatures gave weight to the name the city is known by today.

The Eel Trail celebrates the city's past and present offering a fascinating blend of a rich heritage and architectures with contemporary artworks depicting Ely's association with the eel.

Eels were historically part of the local staple diet as well as a valuable source of income. Jellied eels were popular until recent times and clients would come from London such was the reputation of Ely's eels.

Eels are still caught in the Great River Ouse although only one commercial catcher remains. Smoked eels, now considered a delicacy, can be purchased on Ely's award winning Farmer's Market and dishes such as eel stew and eel pie can be found regularly on the restaurant menus in the areas.

So, to use the 'Eel Trail' for exploring the city full of charm and beauty is the perfect guide. Here, you can visit some of the unique and impressive structures of the city, as well as investigating the more modern developments.

I was lucky as the day brought intense sunshine, blue skies, and smiling faces all around the city. Here are some of the must-sees that can give you a real flavour of the Cambridgeshire city.
Oliver Cromwell's house offers an insight into the leader's life

Oliver Cromwell's House

Doubling up as Ely's Tourist Information Centre, the house itself pre-dates Cromwell by about four centuries as parts of it have 13th century origins. Its most famous resident was of course Cromwell, who inherited the house along with the title 'Farmer of the Tithes' which today would be termed as the local tax collector.

Oliver Cromwell reading something to his family...
Former Lord Protector of England Cromwell lived in Ely with his family for just over 10 years between 1636-1647. It is the only remaining residence , other than Hampton Court in London.

The house is full of history and atmosphere, and gives a real feeling as to the kind of man Cromwell was. Still to this day the man divides opinion – hero or villain? From being a strong military leader and protecting people from despot kingly rule, to overseeing terribly tyranny's in Ireland, that essay is for another blog!

The structure inside the cathedral is inspiring
The famous Octagon Tower looks even better in sunlight

Ely Cathedral

In my opinion, one of the most magnificent, striking and spectacular cathedrals in the land. With its unique Octagon Tower, the city has developed round the magnificent structure.

The Cathedral you can see today originates from the 11th century and is a place to enjoy at your own pace with the benefit of a guided tour.

Inside, you can read how a Saxon Princess, who ran away from her husband, became a Saint and founder of Ely. Reading how the cathedral, built on the Cambridgeshire Fens, came to be the only UK building recognised as one of the seven Medieval Wonders of the World gives you a real perspective of the marvel in front of your eyes.
The perfect place for a moment of reflection

The art is simply breathtaking in Ely Cathedral
The Octagon Tower is known as a wonder of medieval engineering, nothing short of a masterpiece. The guided tour will take you back to the time of King Edward III and inside his Master Carpenter's oak Lantern Tower.

The West Tower dominated the Fenland landscape and if time permits is well worth the walk up to see the spectacular view from the top.
The Stained Glass Windows in the cathedral
The Lady Chapel is an excellent place to feel refreshed and revitalised, radiating the sunlight through the many panes of glass. Completed in 1349, the Lady Chapel is the largest of its kind in the UK, and its architectural beauty is recognised all over the world.

For more information on the cathedral, including admission prices and opening times, click here.

Stained Glass Museum

The Stained Glass Museum is situated in the South Triforium of the cathedral, and houses a wonderful collection.
The experience is enhanced by a highly-acclaimed audio-guided tour which tells the history of the stained glass through the ages. The main gallery contains displayed of stained glass windows ranging over eight centuries in specially illuminated cases.

Ely Museum

Located in Ely's old gaol, this site provides the perfect opportunity to delve through the city's history with informative and colourful displays.
The museum tells how prisoners were dealt with in the 13th century
It has also been a tavern, a house and a registry office. Learning how criminals were dealt with back in the 13th century is especially interesting, plus you get to meet some of the characters face-front!

The Riverside Walk

You cannot fail to feel at peace when walking from the waterside, past the Babylon Gallery and onto the The Maltings. As well as moored barges there are numerous pubs and restaurants that can make you delighted to while away your evening on the riverfront.

The waterside area has become a haven for food lovers with a wide variety of venues including The Cutter Inn, and the award-winning Peacocks Tea Rooms and the newly-opened Grand Central American Grill.
A beautiful, scenic walk on the riverside
However, I would recommend a visit to 'ta bouche' – a funky cocktail bar and restaurant with an excellent outdoor seating area. The food and drink are reasonably priced, but a real bonus is the exceptional and attentive service from waiting staff, ensuring all you have to do is relax and enjoy the view.

If you want a charming city that is easily negotiable on foot, one that has it's own very unique history and superbly-maintained architecture, as well as a vibrant center, then Ely is well worth a visit. And make sure Oliver Cromwell's House is your first stop where you will be met with a smile, a map and some of the city's best kept secrets.

A well-deserved beer after a busy afternoon
Accommodation in Ely:

Poets House


The Nyton Guesthouse


The Riverside Inn


Peacocks B&B


Ely Travelodge


A selection of eateries:

The Grand Central


The Lamb


The Prince Albert


The Cutter Inn


Ta bouche